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First ascent of the Passport Couloir with Forrest Murphy, Don Serl. 22nd Sept 2002.
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Mining camp near the trailhead.
Don and Forrest hiking on the approach.
The valley, Winstone is out of sight to the left.
Mount Winstone from the glacier.
Crossing the bergshrund.
Forrest climbing the lower couloir.
Don leading one of the ice pitches in the couloir.
Forrest leading further up the couloir.
Don leading the crux ice pitch.
Forrest leading the second half of the crux.
Don and Forrest following the final pitch.
Don at the top of the couloir.
Summit ridge.

The Passport Couloir

Climbed on the 22nd Sept 2002 the route takes the obvious couloir on its far left hand side (the rock ridge just out of view on the right is the National Pillar).

From below the bergshrund three (60m) pitches of simul-climbing followed by three belayed pitches led to the base of the serac band which was tackled on the far left next to the rock. A 50m pitch (WI3) followed by 20m (WI4-). Another two pitches moving together above the crux led to the summit ridge and the end of the technical difficulties. The summit itself is another half hour along the ridge.

The party took four hours to approach from a base camp just above the treeline and eight hours from bergshrund to summit. The lengthy descent took just under seven hours to base camp.

Of course these are just numbers. The climbing, great weather and company combined to give this route a huge fun factor.

Forrest also has some good pictures of the trip.