A First Trip to "Da Wadd"
In the summer of 2003 I finally got to go on my first trip to The Waddington
Range. Don Serl had organized an ACC trip and I tagged along, climbing for the
most part with Robert but doing a couple of routes with Don (Stilletto,
Dragonback and The Claw). The weather was marginal the second week and we had to
haul all our gear from below Dragonback on the Upper Tellot Glacier to a landing
site below the Plummer Hut in order to get flown out.
We did a bunch of fun warm up routes from a basecamp on the Upper Tellot and
Robert and I did the very fine South Ridge of Serra Two during the last two days
of good weather.
These pictures are Robert's. I rather carelessly decided to drop my camera down
the Hidden Couloir and it didn't work so well after that.
A handful of routes with Robert Nugent and Don Serl over a period of a couple of
weeks in July/August '03:
The Blade, East Ridge - new start variation, 3340m, (180m, D 5.9). 28th
Start up the obvious corner system a 100m right of the existing route.
Continue directly up this corner to cracks, eventually joining the original East
Ridge route a pitch or so below the crest.
Serra Two, Hidden Couloir
Dragonback, Dragonís Tail Ridge
Stiletto Needle, West Face
Serra Two, South Ridge
The Claw, West Ridge
It's worth noting the weather does not have to be that bad for helicopter pickup
from the Upper Tellot or Combatant Col to be impossible. Go light and plan to be
able to move lower in order to get flown out!
Further details can be found on
www.bivouac.com and in Don Serl's excellent guidebook.
The Waddington Guide: Alpine Climbs in one of the World's Great
Ranges, Don Serl, Elaho Publishing