Archive for June 2007


So I’m lucky enough to have several climbing partners who snore more than I do. Loudly. Like sleeping next to a three hundred pound pig with a chronic case of congestion. It gets old really fast – trust me.

The obvious answer is earplugs but given my track record with alpine starts I like to use a watch alarm to give me a better chance of getting an early start. Earplugs, alarm. Not a winning combination.

But I think I might have a solution… It got me thinking what would I do if I was deaf and needed an alarm? Turns out that you can get a watch with a vibrating alarm. There are several specifically for the hearing impared. Casio also makes one for hunters.

I’m taking this to Peru so we’ll know if it works in a week or two.

Breathing Ladders

Something I’ve been meaning to play with for a while. Just because they sound messed up. Or more to the point seem to offer be mess me up potential.

Breathing Ladders…

Two things really interest me about this for climbing. Firstly breathing control is a big part of climbing, remaining calm and in control is the best way not to shake yourself off a route or pump out faster than you should. Secondly for climbing at altitude breathing is also key as it using what air there is efficiently, its way to easy to end up as a panting mess.

I was trying a breathing ladder with thrusters at CrossFit the other night there’s a real trick to it. I’m actually going to have to have a couple of goes just to get things going and play with it a bit. More later…

New Aerial Photos of BC

John Scurlock has been at it again. This time flying around some of the other ranges in BC taking fantastic shots of the climbing and skiing potential up there. Check out his latest photo galleries.

E11 The Best Climbing Video Since Stone Monkey

Rock climbing makes bad TV. The huge popularity of televised climbing competitions proves it. Some skinny guy or girl in the latest cragging “fashions” clipping bolts or attempting some plastic boulder problem. It’s like juggling, doing it is fine but nobody should have to watch. So for me to be writing about a climbing video it has to be a bit different.

E11” is just such a film. Not since “Stone Monkey” has it got this good…

The movie follows Dave MacLeod‘s attempts to climb ‘Rhapsody’ E11 7a (French 8c+) on Dumbarton Rock, a crag you’ve never heard of on the outskirts of Glasgow. An therein lies the movie’s unique take on climbing. It’s not all posing on sun drenched Euro crags. It’s about a relatively regular guy, who happens to climb very hard and his long suffering wife who has a real job. Dave’s obsession leads him to keep trying the route taking some monster falls in the process.

My only complaint is there’s tantalizing winter footage thrown in at one point which left we wanting more.